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Making Hay and Haylage for Winter Feed

For many smallholders, the sight of a barn full of sweet-smelling hay or tightly wrapped haylage is the ultimate reassurance that winter will be manageable. Yet making that crop is rarely straightforward. The British weather, grass growth and moisture levels all conspire to turn a simple task into a delicate balancing act. Get it right and you have cost-effective, nutritious feed. Get it wrong and you can lose a whole field's worth of valuable forage to mould, heating or spoilage.

Understanding the Difference Between Hay and Haylage

The fundamental choice is between drying grass down to hay or fermenting it as haylage. Hay is cut and dried to around 15–20% moisture, then baled and stored without wrapping. It relies on dry matter and good ventilation. Haylage, by contrast, is baled at 40–60% moisture and sealed in plastic. The anaerobic fermentation preserves the grass, creating a slightly acidic, high-moisture feed.

Each has its place. Hay is cheaper to produce, needs no plastic, and suits horses and sheep well. But it is at the mercy of the weather. Haylage is more reliable in a wet summer, has higher feed value, and is often preferred for cattle and growing stock. However, it requires careful wrapping, costs more, and must be used within a few days of opening a bale to avoid spoilage.

Reading the Weather and Grass Growth

Timing is everything. You need a window of at least three to five dry, sunny days with a decent breeze for hay. Haylage needs a shorter window – often just 24 to 48 hours of dry weather – but you still need to avoid heavy rain. In the UK, the best chance usually comes in late May to early July, though a second cut in August can work if growth allows.

The grass itself tells you when to cut. For hay, aim for the early flowering stage, when seed heads are just emerging. This gives a good balance of yield and digestibility. For haylage, cut slightly earlier, when the grass is leafy and before seed heads set, to capture higher protein and energy. Walk your fields regularly and check growth stages. If you leave it too long, stems become lignified, and livestock will sort through it, leaving waste.

Moisture Levels: The Critical Factor

Nothing ruins a crop faster than baling at the wrong moisture. For hay, you need below 20% moisture – ideally 15–18%. Bale it wetter and you risk mould, heating, and even spontaneous combustion in the stack. For haylage, you want 45–55% moisture in big bales (or 60–65% for small bales). Too dry and fermentation won't happen; too wet and you get a slimy, butyric fermentation that smells foul and can harm livestock.

Test before you bale. A simple squeeze test works: grab a handful of grass and twist. For hay, it should snap and feel brittle. For haylage, it should feel like a wrung-out sponge, with stems tough but not dripping. A moisture meter gives a more accurate reading, and for haylage, a laboratory analysis is worth the small cost. Do not guess – a few percent can make the difference between feed and waste.

Timing the Cut and Field Operations

Mow in the morning after the dew has lifted, so the grass dries quickly. For hay, ted it out immediately to spread the swath and expose it to sun and wind. Ted again every day, and row up only when the moisture is right. For haylage, cut and wilt for 24–48 hours, then bale and wrap within 12 hours of baling. Speed matters – delays allow the grass to heat and spoil.

Wrapping is your insurance. Use six layers of high-quality plastic for big bales, and stack them carefully to avoid punctures. Keep bales on a clean, well-drained surface, and check them regularly for holes. If you use contractors, book early – everyone wants the same weather window. If you do it yourself, maintain your machinery and have spare net wrap or plastic on hand.

Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them

  • Baling too wet: Mould and mycotoxins can cause respiratory issues and reduced intake. Always test moisture.
  • Baling too dry for haylage: Fermentation fails, but the feed may still be stable – just less palatable and more prone to mould if exposed to air.
  • Rain damage: Rain leaches nutrients and encourages mould. If rain is forecast, consider switching to haylage, which is more forgiving.
  • Poor storage: Keep hay off the ground on pallets, and stack haylage bales no more than two or three high to avoid crushing. Protect from vermin and ensure good ventilation for hay.
  • Delayed wrapping: Even a few hours can cause heating. Wrap as soon as possible after baling.

Making the Right Choice for Your Holding

There is no single right answer. Think about your livestock, your storage, your budget and your local climate. Horses often do best on dust-free hay or haylage, while cattle and sheep thrive on well-made haylage. If you have limited undercover storage, haylage's plastic wrapping is an advantage. If you want to avoid plastic and have reliable dry weather, hay is ideal.

Start with a small acreage and learn as you go. Keep records of cutting dates, moisture readings, and how your animals perform on the feed. Over time, you will develop an instinct for the right moment. Good winter feed is made in summer – and a little planning now saves a lot of worry when the frost arrives.

Tags: Livestock
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Fiona MacLeod

Acre & Furrow shares practical, down-to-earth guidance on smallholding, rural property and land management for readers across the UK.

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